2022 Pizzeria of the Year

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Pizza Today's 'Pizzeria of the Year' Tony's Pizza Napoletana

Famed pizzeria surpasses $1 million a month in sales.

Story by Denise Greer Photos by Josh Keown

Famed pizzeria surpasses $1 million a month in sales

Tony Gemignani, Owner Tony's Pizza Napoletana

Approaching 1570 Stockton Street in the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco at lunchtime, a line of eager diners stretches a half a block. At the corner resides a thriving legend in pizza history, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. Everyone on that block knew they were partaking in something special. Tony’s Pizza Napoletana is a melting pot of pizza styles. The pizzeria excels at an array of styles, including Classic American, Classic Italian, Pizza Napoletana, California, Pizza Romano, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Detroit, Coal-fired, St. Louis and gluten-free. With a full menu, Tony’s applies the same “respect the craft” approach to everything served from the giant meatball app to house-made pastas, desserts and a comprehensive beverage program. “I always said I want to make it an institution,” says owner Tony Gemignani. “There is only one. I always felt like Tony’s could be the best pizza in the U.S. It could be the best pizzeria in the world. Tony’s is like what’s your favorite spot in Detroit and New Haven and New York and St. Louis and let’s all have it in one place.”Tony’s has experienced a renaissance that has catapulted the famed pizzeria into uncharted territory: one-million-dollar net sales a month. It’s an unfathomable number for even the highest volume of pizzeria. The blockbuster sales and Tony’s unwavering reputation as one of the world’s best pizzerias have earned Tony’s Pizza Napoletana the coveted Pizzeria of the Year 2022 honor by Pizza Today. To grasp the steps Tony took to reach unprecedented sales especially amidst a volatile business environment, let’s look at Tony’s in its infancy.

Tony gained experience and acclaim at his brother’s pizzeria, Pyzano’s Pizzeria in Castro Valley. But Tony wanted to chart a course of his own making. He found partners and just after the economic recession of 2008, Tony found a quiet Bay Area neighborhood that had yet to be revitalized. Vacant storefronts were plentiful in North Beach. Honing in on the Little Italy neighborhood, Tony had his pick of buildings. But as he eyed the corner of Stockton and Union, even his broker warned him that it was a cursed corner. Tony instead followed his due diligence on the block’s history. “For 90 years it was like three places,” Tony says. “After that it was three to four places in like two and a half years.” Gemignani’s reputation was established among the best pizza makers in the world and solidified by his 2007 World Champion Pizza Maker win at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy. Tony’s opened as a full-service pizzeria in 2009 with raving success. Right away Tony saw a void in convenience, pick-up and delivery in his fine-dining pizzeria and wanted to take over the neighboring storefront. Within eight months Tony’s Coal-Fired Pizza & Slice House opened under the same business license. With the combination of fine dining and a counter-service slice house Tony’s was designed to hit high sales figures and it began gradually.“ Celebrating the first $1 million, it took a lot and then to get to $1.2 and to do a $5,000 night, those were exciting times,” Gemignani says. “Before she was my wife, my girlfriend sitting on the counter and me writing out checks. I don’t want people to think that I was never there, or you could be there, and it could be gone one day. You never know what could happen. “Then you say ‘wow, how can you do a million-dollar month?’ A million dollars a year you’re always trying to achieve that and then the $2 million restaurant. But with Tony’s the goal was $10 million a year honestly. As we started to go, I would always dream about ‘wow I could do $10 million’ and now it’s like ‘can you actually do $12’ and during a really unstable and interesting time?”

Fast forward, it’s the end of 2019 and Tony’s Pizza Napoletana capped the year with $9.1 million in sales and anticipated reaching that $10 million mark in 2020 for the first time in its history. Tony was eager to be a sole proprietor of his namesake business. He had already bought out one partner and in February 2020 Tony bought out the second partner. “I got the biggest SBA loan I’ve ever gotten, the biggest loan I’ve ever gotten,” he says. “I had never gotten an SBA loan. I had only gotten a home loan. I’ve been able to get private equity. Maybe two weeks after the documents were done and we signed everything, COVID hit.” The bottom fell out. The COVID-19 Pandemic obliterated San Francisco’s once thriving restaurant industry. The initial blow to Tony’s was devastating, a 56-percent decline in business during that second quarter. Tony stepped into the forefront on Pizza Today’s The Hot Slice Podcast and Checking In With series offering other operators the realities of COVID-19 in one of the country’s largest metropolitan cities and the actions he was taking to rebound. Some of those steps triggered the immense growth Tony’s experienced in 2021 and 2022. But survival was paramount at Tony’s in 2020. The team got creative and innovative to maintain during the grim time, instituting such initiatives as Wine for a Dime, frozen pizzas, take and bake pizza, family specials pizza kits, pizza valet, Easter egg coloring packages, cocktails to-go, and 10 percent customer loyalty pens. They also took a hard look at the operations, making decisions to decrease menu options and offer better online ordering. They restructured the Slice House kitchen and streamlined to-go and the third party and pick-up window directly on the sidewalk. Tony’s had used parklet prior to COVID-19, so as soon as the city approved the outdoor seating, Tony went all in. “I invested in the parklets on both sides of the restaurant with lighting and heaters,” he says. “It was a big investment.” Parklets were completed in phases with roofing added for colder months. The parklets created an additional 100 seats for the busy restaurant. While indoor dining was closed, the parklets, carryout and delivery flourished.

The initiatives helped stem the damage and triggered a comeback. The efficiencies and parklets sparked Tony and his team to think forward. “What happens when it comes back? During COVID, you didn’t have both open at the same time. So, I’m going to my GM Netali, ‘how are we going to handle it? We could barely handle it at $9.1 and we’re hoping we can get to $10. I remember when we hit $9 and I was like what happens when we hit $11? We don’t have enough refrigeration. We don’t have enough room.’” Tony took the gamble and reinvesting in his concept and created a concrete strategy to handle the sheer volume that he anticipated for Tony’s. In 2019, Tony had started the process of opening a bakery that would also act as a commissary for dough production for Tony’s as well as other brands. Delayed by COVID-19, Toscano Brothers opened around the corner from Tony’s in May 2021, moving all dough production (mixers and equipment) from Tony’s to the bakery. It doubled walk in refrigeration and freezer capacity for dough and frozen pizzas — approximately 70 percent more dough for pizza. It also shifted 25 percent of the inventory from Tony’s to the bakery, which now housed flour, semolina, yeast, oil, malt and other dough-making supplies for Tony’s seven dough recipes. The bakery also provided revenue generation through breads such as sourdough baguettes, artisan batards and boulé then cross utilized them for menu items at Tony’s like garlic bread, bruschetta, crostini and Sour Cherry & Chocolate Caramel bread pudding. Bagels and pastries added extra income. Using the bakery as a commissary helped free up much needed space at Tony’s. The sauté and fryer lines were expanded to double the space and new equipment was purchased. A double stack gas brick oven was replaced by a triple stack electric deck oven. With dough being made at the bakery, the prep, refrigeration and storage areas at Tony’s were poised to tackle more products.

The kitchen in Tony’s and the Slice House is tight, much like many pizzerias in the U.S. You would expect large kitchen spaces for a million-dollar-a-month business. How? “It's tiny, right?” Tony says. Everyone knows their stations. They are good at what they do. They’re great pizza makers.” Approximately 100 employees staff Tony’s and the Slice House. A seasoned and tested team has been vital to Tony’s success. “Ravel, JP, Stephanie, Mario, Juan, there are a lot that have been with us since the beginning.”“ A big part of it is I try to lead by example,” Tony says. “So, I am in the kitchen still. I think that’s pretty important that employees see you working. I’m able to do that. Pay is important. Treat them right is important.” Tony takes a sports team dynamic approach to his crew and hiring. “It’s a game every night. You have to be better at something. I’ve been pretty fortunate enough to keep some really great core employees. I think the core is important. The infrastructure is important you can always get people to leave and come but it’s that GM, that chef, wine director, lead bartenders, lead servers.”

Another key factor in the concept is creative marketing, sometimes even unorthodox campaigns. While Tony’s currently does not use a marketing or PR agency, the pizzeria is able to drive traffic with fresh stories that keep Tony’s top of mind in the community and beyond. During Asian Pacific American Heritage Month, Tony put a special pizza on its menu for a month to help fundraise for two badminton players to advance in the sport. A badminton champ himself, Tony even challenged the rising stars to a match and taught them how to make pizza that garnered media attention and generating funds for the cause. Cause marketing is close to Tony’s with three major charities: George Mark Children's House, Family House, & SF Marin Food Bank, as well as regular pizza donations to St Vincent de Paul. To grab attention, Tony has collaborated with artists to create custom, limited-edition pizzas and boxes with Ed Hardy and renowned artist and North Beach neighbor Jeremy Fish. Tony is all about creating buzzworthy marketing. Tony is currently collaborating with Fish on a creative project with a local cannabis dispensary. Tony has created an out-of-the-box slice/cannabis pairing. “We do millionaire’s bacon, it has basil and tomatoes,” Tony says. “I do it in the wood fired oven.” The pizza goes into Fish’s designed box. “You bring that box up to the dispensary, you have a Tony’s preroll called the Pizza Joint,” he says. “It has notes of the basil and the tomato and that earthiness and smokiness of course of that pizza. So, it’s kind cannabis world, pizza world and artist.” Tony says, when you’re up against pizza companies with million-dollar ad and marketing budgets you must find ways to stand out from the crowd. At the end of the day, it’s the personal connection. “When you have a personal connection with your restaurant and a personal connection to your customers about the food and what it’s like…those moments of purity that I think is important to share. Tony’s has always been about that. I have a story about every single pizza that lands on that table or the flour or the oven it came out of.” Visit PizzaToday.com for more exclusive insights from our Pizzeria of the Year.

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana was one of the first pizzerias to offer so many sought after regional pizza styles in one restaurant. Here’s a peek at the pizza styles at Tony’s

Styles

Classic American

All Classic American pizzas have hand crushed, slightly sweet tomato sauce and a hand tossed rustic medium crust. It baked at 535 F.

Coal-Fired

The thin-crust pizzas are baked in 1000 F coal oven.

New York

The crust is thin and crispy with some chew. Slices are to be folded down the middle for consumption. The pizzas are 20 inches and baked at 525 F. All pizzas are finished with Pecorino and oregano.

Sicilian

All Sicilian style pan pizzas are topped with vine ripened tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Bake at 535F.

Detroit

Square pizza cooked in steel pans from detroit and topped with Wisconsin brick mozzarella cheese, white cheddar, tomato sauce and garlic butter toasted corners. Topped with pecorino, oregano, garlic, extra virgin olive oil. Cooked at 535 F.

Tavern

California

Dough uses a multigrain flour. The style has a signature artisan crust and creative toppings. Pizza are 12 inches and baked in a 900 F wood-fired oven.

Grandma

A thinner version of a Sicilian pie. Grandma pies are heavily oiled and baked in a square pan at 535 F.

St. Louis

This super thin-crust pizza typically features Provel (swiss, white cheddar, provolone) extra sweet tomato sauce and it is cut into squares.

Pizza Napoletana

Dough finished by hand then proofed in Napoletana wood boxes. Pizza are 12 inches and baked in a 900 F wood-fired oven.

Classic Italian

All Classic Italian pizzas have vine-ripened tomato sauce and a hand tossed rustic medium crust. Pies are cooked at 535 F and 575 F.

Pizza Romano

The long thin pizzas stretch almost three feet. The pies are baked at 570 F.

How To:

From Million Dollar Months to Sicilian Pan demos, Tony shares his knowledge in the following videos.

Million Dollar Months

See what it takes to pull of a million dollar month at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana.

Everything old becomes new again. Sicilian pizza is one of the hottest styles out there today. Let Tony G. show you why with special guests

Demo: Sicilian Pan

Tony Gemignani has he demonstrates how to make the Cal-Italia pizza, a Food Network Gold Metal winner. The pizza features a three-cheese blend, fig preserve, shaved Parmesan, prosciutto di Parma, and a balsamic reduction. Take notes as Tony walks you through the pizza, from concept and bake to cut and finish. He also shares dough stretching, transferring pizza to a peel and baking technique tips.

Cal-Italia Pizza

Respect

The

Recipes

Six Tony’s Trending Recipes We Love

Tony G. explores the rising national popularity of this Long Island staple -- Grandma-style pizza. SEE FULL RECIPE

The Grandma Pizza

Twenty-two years ago, my wife and I went to Italy for our honeymoon. For the first time I visited my family in a tiny town in the mountains near Lucca SEE FULL RECIPE

The Lucca

White pies are some of my favorite East Coast pizzas. To “kick it up a notch” SEE FULL RECIPE

Spinach White Pie

Cutting carbs is half the battle, so why not start the year off with a cracker thin/tavern pizza SEE FULL RECIPE

Cracker Thin Pizza

Stone fruit season is here, and that reminds me of an event I did long ago. SEE FULL RECIPE

Peaches and Cream Pizza

I remember having Shawn Randazzo in one of my seminars several years ago and telling the audience that this guy may win it all SEE FULL RECIPE

Detroit Pizza

Podcast

Tony Gemignani's

Appearances

We talk to pizza legend and owner Tony Gemignani about the honor and some of his best moments at the pizzeria. Stick around until the end when Tony reveals what he thinks will be the next hot pizza style.

113. Tony Gemignani on Pizzeria of the Year

Listen to World Pizza Champion and Restaurateur Tony Gemignani and his right hand Laura Meyer, also a World Champion, together talk pizza business and the next big thing in the industry.

21. Tony Gemignani and Laura Meyer: New Realities, Pizza Trends and Evolution

In this episode, we interview Tony Gemignani, one of America’s most influential pizza restaurateurs, based in San Francisco.

5. Creating, Revamping Pizza Concepts and Leading by Helping Others

What’s Tony’s Pizza Napoletana’s Food Cost?

Feature Story

Pizza Styles

How To: Videos

Recipes We Love

Featured Podcasts

HOME

See Tony Live at Pizza & Pasta Northeast

Sunday, October 16 | 11:15 am to 12:15 pm D01 Demo: Detroit Style Pizza Sunday, October 16 | 4:30 pm to 6:00 pm W02 Making Dough & Pizzas with Tony Gemignani ($250) Monday, October 17 | 1:45 pm to 2:45 pm D05 Demo: Hand-Made Meatballs